Day 4: Domfront to Laval 86km. I am half man, half pig.

I stayed in a local hotel last night that had a carpet that made sucking noises as you walked on it. It was great. The "Grill" next door promised formule for €10.80 so I'm there early. With the creeping veggie movement in the UK I had forgotten how unusual it is to find a long list of meat dishes and this place specializes in meat. It's an abattoir with a barbeque. My dinner arrives. I think the translation is "big pile of pig on a plate". There's a couple nearby with the same dish in front of them and between the three of us I'm pretty sure we could reconstruct the complete cochon. By the time I've finished, I am half man, half pig and I will never look another sausage in the eye again. Well, for now anyway.

Breakfast is in the "Grill" and I now quite fancy a bacon buttie but there's the ubiquitous french breakfast of bread and pastries. I have a plan to liberate a spoon following a disaster yesterday when trying to eat a yoghurt without one. It didn't end well. So I'm all kitted out now.

The route I'm following is La Velo Francette and the last 30 km stretch today from Mayenne to Laval follows the banks of the River Mayenne and is flat and smooth. I manage to keep my average speed above my target of 16 kph (10 mph if you voted leave) despite two downpours. Tonight I'm in the FastHotel that lacks both character and furniture. It's minimalism with a passion. One bed, one chair and no comforting sucking noise when you walk across the room. I shall eat at the Buffalo Grill tonight. Pretty sure there will be a good vegan menu there.

Highlight of the day: a red squirrel crossed my path. I've never seen one before. Beautiful deep chestnut coat. Onward!