We're off! Well I am. Man and a van, with me and my bike in it, from Saigon to Cai Lay in the Mekong Delta to avoid the madness that is driving in the city and nearby. There is but one rule of the road here: get out of the way of anything bigger than you. That's it.
There are hundreds of motorbikes on the road with us, all fully laden carrying whole families to Tet New Year gatherings. We've (very close) passed a guy on a moped eating a bowl of noodles (we were that close to his breakfast/lunch that I could see it was noodles with beef), someone with a kitchen sink on the back (really, but not plumbed in obvs) and numerous families of four on motorbikes. On one bike there's a toddler sandwiched between mum and dad and a slightly larger toddler hanging on to the handlebars between dad's legs. On the back is a crate of coca cola and a crate of beer. Soooooooh irresponsible. I mean Jeez..... who would risk beer like that?
The highlight of the ride is a van on fire on the edge of a three lane motorway we are hurtling down alongside the total population of Saigon. The smoke is thick and drifting across the motorway and when we drive into the plume visibility is about one metre, two metres tops. We don't slow down at all and nor does anyone else. Sensibly, given the smoke, people on motorbikes closed their eyes. We emerged unscathed but I am now verging on adopting a deity. Anyone will do.
At Tan An the road changes and we are cruising through paddy fields and orchards. I'm dropped of just south of Cay Lay on a small cinder track side road following the east bank of the river Song Ba Rai. The driver clasps both of my hands to his chest with both of his hands and says "good luck". Oh dear. Does he know something I don't? Almost certainly but hey, let's crack on.
The side roads are very quiet and safe and children shout "Hello!" and give the v for victory handsign. Interestingly, older people (north of 70 say) smile more broadly than other people and wave. They are old enough to have lived through the war and it's sobering to see them. Every 30 metres or so there's a communist flag in the middle of the road or next to it. I guess just reminding everyone who won that war.
Enough maudling! A lovely but brief ride was had, apart from a puncture. I needed to get the pressure in the replaced tube higer than I could manage with a hand pump and so stopped at a 'garage' to beg for the use of the airline. It was basically someone's house with the three generations of a family sitting at a table outside. They couldn't have been more helpful and welcoming and offered me water that I gratefully accepted. Lovely people.
I'm just supping a beer at the Mekong Lodge and watching the sun go down over the Mekong River. On this trip I brought with me a 'powerstone' that also went across France with me last year. It was left in our cottage in Tideswell by George Daniel the younger brother of Seth. Seth had given George the powerstone to help him climb a hill in the Peak District and here it is now on top of a beer can enjoying the sunset over the Mekong. Thanks boys!
Time to eat but I can't decide between "Deep fried elephant ear fish" and "hot pot with ingredients". Nigella, you've really let yourself go.
I really hope that beer arrived home safely.
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